home again

Long flights and lots of tears as we flew away. Dorothy and I couldn’t sit next to each other on either flight (Lilongwe-jo’burg, jo’burg-dc) as they were full and somehow people prebooked seats. She was close to the middle of the plane and I was all the way in the back—no reclining for the long flight. Watched 5 movies (none of which had I heard of after a year in Africa)…think I slept a little in between but not too much. Had to say goodbye to Dorothy on the plane before we landed in DC and it was good we did because we didn’t see each other after. Seemed strange and unreal. Then my last flight to charlotte where my parents were to pick me up…they were right at the security exit and they didn’t recognize me…guess braids and glasses are a pretty good disguise…I think my face lighting up and the flipflops were a giveaway…I’m so not ready for winter…

airport

Rhona left on Sunday along with Debbie and Susan both American nurses. They were all on the same flight to Jo’burg. Very hard to say goodbye. Isabelle and james came as well. The airport was in chaos. Lines for forever for all of the flights. No explanation as to the 3 maybe 4 flights that come in are all scheduled for the same time (well within an hour) and the flights out are about the same. Just causes a traffic jam. Anyway. We waited in line for at least 2 hours just to check in. then we actually had to say good bye as they went through security…lots of tears and then we waited for them to get through the customs doorway and give us a wave. Debbie and susan were through and we still didn’t see rhona. And then she was coming back down the stairs saying they wouldn’t let her through. Since I’ve got the same stamp/receipt in my passport I thought I would see what the problem was (as if I could do anything she couldn’t)…the difference is that I got my letter so I could get the stamp I needed and she only had the receipt…but the immigration officer was adamant that the permit we have is good only for the first 6 months we’re in the country no matter when you buy it…and as I didn’t have my passport (leaving the next day) I couldn’t show him what I had…and he wasn’t going to believe me as he’s worked for immigration for 20 years. The ter haars were at the airport picking up some family that were coming to visit so we called reynier (medical director of the hospital) and hoped they hadn’t left yet. They hadn’t and he came up…spoke some Chichewa and somehow solved the problem…then the guy told me I needed to go and get another permit so that I wasn’t illegal…I told him that I was leaving tomorrow and wouldn’t have time…well he’s working so we’ll have problems then. Ok. See you tomorrow! Cuts down on the tears at the very end when you have issues like that…

Dorothy and I had no problems getting through customs on Monday—he wasn’t working or was on break because I didn’t see him…of course I really wanted to show him the stamp in my passport that says I was fine until the 2nd of January 2011 but it was probably better that he wasn’t there. No crazy lines or anything to hold us up and so it went way too fast for me to get through and be gone…

goodbyes

I took the Ebenezer staff to lunch in the market after the Christmas program. So now they know first hand that I eat nsima (they didn’t seem to believe that I do) but I also noticed that most of them ordered the rice plate not the nsima…Mr. Banda loves agogo (Dorothy) and it was quite and entertaining lunch. Also amazing is that I spent less than $15 for lunch for 12 people…

I took in cookies on my last day at school and went through each class to say goodbye. Not really sad as the kids would wave and then hold out their hands for their cookies but it was nice either way. It was strange to leave on Friday as I wouldn’t be back before I left on Monday…

Saturday afternoon we had a get together in our yard—well the porch downstairs since we still don’t have neighbors and can use it. lots of hospital staff came to send rhona off and some of the school staff came for Dorothy and me. It was a nice gathering with cakes and snacks. I was actually late because I got my hair braided again but only 15 minutes so I still beat most people there. Hard to say goodbye (esp when you figure you’ll run into most of them again before Monday.

christmas pageant

For the month of December some of the teachers have been working on the christmas program. They have taken kids out of each class for parts in the play. Mark was picked for Joseph and chisomo was the lead angel. Every day at 1130 they would go to the office to rehearse. Then this last week of school on Monday they went to the church for dress rehearsal at 11. Tuesday got rained out and the program was on for Wednesday. I still had no idea what was really going to happen or be portrayed but was quite excited to see it. so Wednesday came and the invitation said to come at 1030 (though we wanted to start at 11) (the school team had wanted to put 1000 or even 930 for the same actual start time). Those in the pageant went over at 9 to practice again (Monday was evidently a shambles). The rest of us came over at 10. We were a part of the choir. Got to see a little bit of rehearsal. It was an adorable production. Teacher Patience was the narrator (using the microphone just made everything fuzzy but we all know the story) the kids said their lines…we had Herod with 2 soldiers who marched for all they were worth and shouted their orders at the first row of the audience…the inn keeper who told mary and joseph there was no room so mary and joseph had to continue their journey around the communion table with mary saying “I’m tired” and joseph responding “it’s ok” all the way around…3 times as the first 2 had full inns. The 3 year olds were all angels who followed chisomo as the choir of angels. I think it went very well. At the end of the play the school team made a presentation of Christmas gifts: umbrellas for the teachers, Dorothy got a wooden puzzle of Africa (the pieces were African animals), pictures in a frame, and a booklet with well wishes and thanks from the teachers, and I got a book on Malawi and a booklet with some photos and notes from my kids. We both said a few words but had to keep it short because the tears were threatening to start.

report cards

We were actually given reports cards to fill out and give to the kids. I really wish there had been some kind of warning. But esther and I sat down after the kids had gone and gotten them filled out. No number grades as yet just O, S, or U (outstanding, satisfactory, unsatisfactory) in the categories: math, social studies, science, handwriting, spelling, phonics, bible, creative writing. It also asked for attendance which I didn’t know I was supposed to be taking this term…so I made it up. And then developmental traits: respectful, works well with others, participates, listens and follows directions, etc. they were sent home on the last day of school so I’ll never know what kind of parent comments they might have put on the back…

reception

Malawian wedding receptions seem to be a fundraising activity. We also arrived late to this event after wandering around Lilongwe in our suits, but still arrived before the couple descended the steps and alighted on the stage or front area. And for them to walk down the aisle there had to be a double line of people each willing to give K500 (~$2.50) to the couple as they slowly danced to the front. Once at the front the mc was in charge (well he was the whole time) this part of the day was all in Chichewa so we didn’t understand most of what was happening other than lots of money giving…there was a large couch up front and the wedding party sat behind the couple (on the couch). The mc would have the bride or groom stand forward with a basket and call out categories and if you fit in that particular category to the front you would go with a gift of money. So to welcome one into the others family (bride to groom and then groom to bride) it would start at K500 and then after the people stopped coming forward the mc would drop to K200 and then K100 and then open it for any amount that anyone wants to give. Then he said that because Stella looks so beautiful (K500,K200,K100, open) Bazilio looks so handsome. Because you are friends with them, because they are a couple, because you work with them, etc. and on and on and on and on. They even sell pieces of the wedding cake! In the same auction style…little bites that have been wrapped in foil who knows when before the day…to the side of all the proceedings is an exchange area so that you can get smaller bills to shower the couple with. I would be very interested in finding out how much was made at the reception…

wedding

Back in the beginning we had been invited to a wedding. Well rhona had and me by default I think but I’ll take it. stella was a nurse on rhona’s ward and she got married the first weekend in December. So we went. Got dressed in our Malawian suits—isabelle, rhona, maria and me and off we went. Everything in Africa is late (except when you are and then it seems to happen on time) but weddings are often started at 8 according to the invite and then around 10 the ceremony might start. But this was in town and we were told that weddings in town start on time. However, the car wouldn’t start so we ended up being an hour late and arriving an hour late and just before she walked into the church (perfect timing really). Beautiful couple…some priceless nuggets from the ceremony:

Asked to representatives of each part of the couple:
“God will bless them abundantly with children, cars, bikes, etc. Do you promise not to grab anything from them?”

Told to us witnesses:
“Look at your neighbor and tell them that they look better than yesterday.”

In the part of being submissive to your husband, to the groom:
“if you love your wife, you can cook for her. If you love your wife, you can even wash clothes for her.” (she isn’t your servant)

To the bride:
“men are all the same, be they tall, fat, short, thin. If you leave him, you will only find another man who is worse. So it is better to work it out with this one.”

And the translation from English to Chichewa:
Honey honey==sweetie sweetie chocolate

It was a great ceremony. Happier (the couple smiled throughout the ceremony) and more lively than most (so I’ve been told as it is the only one I’ve been to in Malawi) and they even kissed at the end of the ceremony (not done in Nkhoma—as I’ve been told).

last days of school

One of my girls wanted to read a book that we hadn’t even looked at in class—Ira Sleeps Over. It was one that I remember growing up with and loving and she did a great job. It took us 2 days to get through it but she did most of the reading!

Our math lesson called for baking of a recipe…so I took in the ingredients and we measured and mixed and then I took it home to actually bake it. we did some oatmeal bars that turned out to be a big hit. The only problem I had with it was that everyone at school wanted some and I didn’t have nearly enough for that. So we shared that with the teachers and then on the last day I made and gave cookies to all the school. I would say goodbye and then give cookies. I don’t think most of them have any idea that I was saying bye—they just wanted the cookies.

public holiday?!

After another weekend at the lake (to distress from my training and to relax with my crowd—one of the last weekends)—no sleep because of the heat but lots of laughs, we get back to nkhoma and I try to find out about making copies for the next week as I’ve been gone and haven’t taught esther how to use the copy machine but have gotten her to make the list of the pages we’ll need…when I get a text that Monday is a synod holiday—no school as we’re a synod school…nice to know but no warning…oh well, last minute is better than after waking up and getting to school to find it cancelled.

teaching

The next morning I was up early, sitting by the water, contemplating life when one of the leaders (kennedy) came up to me and asked me to teach one of the sessions on making good decisions this afternoon. What?! I thought I was here to observe and see what goes on…guess not. He said I could do good communication if I’d rather. Leaves me a book to help prepare and there I am. Completely freaked out and feeling lost. Look through the book and there is lots on AIDS/HIV (I’m catching a theme). After a while I figure this could be the answer to whether I come back…at least if I do horribly and they don’t want me back then I don’t have to make that decision….this calms me some but of course not completely as I still really don’t like public speaking. Get my session planned out according to this book and then ask kennedy if they really use this book—no you can do whatever you want…not really what I wanted to hear…go for lunch and abusa tells me that I’m up right after…now I’m not hungry either. I have an interpreter which is actually quite a nice way to do a lecture/teaching…gives you time to think about what to say next and if anything goes wrong you can blame the language barrier…there were a couple of times I would ask a question, it would get interpreted, then he would look at me for the next point…no answer because there was no question asked to the audience. So we’d try again. and a couple of times he said things that were funny—mine wasn’t so I have no idea what he said. But I think it went alright…

malingunde

The synod has a youth camp at malingunde. So I went there on Wednesday. Went into town with James Veitch who told me that his colleague might ask me some questions because he wants to be sure that he can work with me if I decide to come back next year…an interview of sorts. Um ok. I’m sent out to malingunde with Abusa Juma (the colleague) and Chimwemwe (secretary for youth offices). I was asked how I became a christian and what ideas I have for the girls youth program. I don’t really have any ideas right now as I don’t know what they do or what anyone thinks is needed…wasn’t sure I was going to pass my “interview” but when we arrived and I was introduced to the “youth” (under 30s) that were there it was announced that I was coming back in February to work with the youth dept. guess I passed. :o the trainings (1-2 hour sessions on different topics) is done almost exclusively in Chichewa so I had not much idea of what was going on…I did catch HIV/AIDS a couple of times and the second one was on the transmission and prevention of HIV/AIDS (I caught that because it was written on the board in English). Another was on the Word of God as a weapon, as the giver of wisdom and truth. AIDS was brought up in this one as well—the Word of God being a way to fight and prevail against it. that evening there was a talent show…everyone sitting around and if you had something you wanted to do you would put your name on the paper. Lots of singing and some recitation of poems or bible verses. Very good singing by everyone it seemed like—they kept asking if I wanted to do something but I opted for being an observer.

thanksgiving

I celebrated on Tuesday as I would be out on Thursday. Invited the guest house people over and cooked up a storm. Being the only American I had to represent especially for all these foreigners who’d never experienced thanksgiving. I did realize that I could get away with a lot since noone else knew what to expect…we had turkey, stuffing (I really did stuff a turkey!), gravy, mashed potatoes, roasted potatoes, onion, and pumpkin, pea salad, salad, strawberry pie, and brownies. Tons of food and great company. I deemed it a success.

rains

The rains have begun. It is nice as it hasn’t rained since about april. Gets some of the dust down and cools things off a bit. Not green yet but it will get there quickly. And it is definitely muddy.

out for hte week

I was out for the week…mulanje on Monday and a training to check out next years possibility wed-fri. so I was there on Tuesday…seemed to go well with esther doing the whole class…

braids end

Took them out upon our return from mulanje. Haircut and hour and a half later… Went to school Tuesday looking like this:

lizard island

but no lizards

from the trip to liwonde...i can finally upload it!

sunday

Hired a guide and headed up to the first hut (chambe hut) for a day hike. We were offered 2 ways to go…a shorter steep path and a longer, more scenic path. And then back down the other way. Our guide asked us which way we wanted to go and then he said no we should do it the other way…ok, he’s the guide. So up the steep (skyline track) and down the scenic. And it was up but at a good pace. Beautiful. Found a fresh water stream to refill our bottles and then we were at the top. We passed many Malawians headed down with cedar logs on their shoulders or heads…barefoot and running down the mountain. I don’t know how they do it. Mulanje cedar is beautiful and they make all kinds of carved things that you can buy at the bottom (boxes, candle holders, wine racks, frames and so much more). Amazing to be passed by at a run someone with a 7ft log on their head. The hut is in a basin surrounded by high peaks…and once we’d made it here I figured rhona and I could have definitely done the whole thing…and I really wished we could have. Down the more scenic path which turned out to be no less steep (at least we didn’t think so) and personally not as scenic. But it was a great day. while getting ready for bed that night we found a snake in our room. The watchman came to kill it and remove it from the room. We were informed that it had been a black mamba but I don’t really know…it was quite small but it shook us up pretty well.

saturday

On our way early the next morning and the mountain is huge. Known sometimes as island in the sky because of the clouds that often cut the view in half making it look like land in the sky I couldn’t imagine if rhona and I had made it before that we would ever have made it up…it looked very formidable. Again we missed our turnoff but it gave us the chance to see all the tea plantations. Fields and fields of green all around the mountain. And we just kept driving. I think we were probably 6k from the Mozambique border before we realized that we should have turned 20k behind us. (NB: we passed through at least 3 police road blocks who all asked us where we were going and when we said the mountain they let us continue…all in the wrong direction—so helpful). so around we went to our (once again well marked from this direction) turn onto a dirt road to get to the entrance to the national reserve. Pounced upon every time we had to stop or turn by people who wanted to be our guide we continued on to the CCAP Guesthouse where we found clean rooms and friendly staff. An afternoon hike to a waterfall where we could swim and relax. Just beautiful really. We started back down when the clouds came in and we were worried about rain. Made it back to the hostel before the rains began and set up for some r&r for the rest of the evening.

mulanje 2

Attempt #2—this time we borrowed a car—Mercedes ’85—from the Ter Haar’s. Rhona, Adriana, Kim and I and we were off. I was designated driver (being the only one who brought my driver’s license to Africa). I had been warned that it was sometimes difficult to get the car into gear and this did prove to be true. Stalled out at the first stop I made because it would go into first. Then when I had to stop to avoid a semi that pulled out across both lanes I couldn’t get it back into first. It kept going into reverse…luckily there were no cars behind me but the onlookers were full of advice and offers to drive us. one more offer and I think the car got worried that I would give it over because it finally caught in first and we were off. Another thing about the roads in Malawi is that the turns are most often only indicated in one direction…and that was most often the opposite direction from where we were going. And so we often missed the turnoff we were supposed to take. In this way we saw the Balaka cathedral (large new building built by mission organization in the middle of a village) before turning around and driving the 5k back to the turn which was well marked in this direction. We stopped in Blantyre for the night as it was getting dark and had been a long day and the driver was ready for a break.

movie nights

We figured out we had a perfect movie screen on our wall and as it turns out there are a couple of projectors we can get our hands on if we plan and ask. Also one of the Malawians has started a pizza business on Thursdays so we thought we would try some movie nights. Invited the guest house people over, ordered pizza from victor, and got a projector. Our first one was a bust because we didn’t choose the movie before hand and no one wanted to be in charge of making the decision and there were just too many choices. It was a good evening of pizza and chatting but no movie. So the second attempt Up was chosen and set up before people arrived. We had movies and then moved the furniture for stadium seating…chairs, couch turned around and a mattress on the floor for the viewing. It was such a hit we watched Forrest Gump the next week…

lizard island

Getting down to the last weekends so they’ve all been planned out. Time to go to the lake as it is hot hot hot. The days are fine because you can get in the water and cool off. The nights are still and not any cooler—harder to deal with since you can’t jump in the water to cool off as there may be crocs or hippos (though we haven’t actually seen them here) took a boat out to lizard island where we could snorkel and had a picnic lunch. Walked around the island looking for the lizards but no luck—just saw and smelled lots of poo on all the rocks. Had a few boats full of Malawians on tour come up to the place we were…felt a little like we were part of the tour as they didn’t get off their boats and they did take pictures of us…on our way back to nkhoma on Sunday we stopped in salima at the ice cream den—we saw it every time on our way back and figured we should really stop. So we went in and the menu seemed extensive for the choices of ice cream. Well turned out the choices weren’t actually that extensive—vanilla ice cream and you could get chocolate sauce on it which was good for most people. Isabelle and I ordered a banana split. The waiter went away and came back a couple of minutes later and said that he’s sorry but they can’t make the banana splits. I’m confused because I know there are bananas everywhere right now (maybe not in the kitchen but easy to get probably right next door) and since everyone else is getting ice cream and chocolate sauce adding bananas would make a good split. So we asked “why not?” we can’t make the banana split because we don’t have any strawberries. ??? we asked for the bananas with the chocolate sauce and that seemed to confuse him but he did go to make it. after about 5 minutes he came out with one of them…and about 5 minutes later he came out with the second. (these are not works of art—small plastic Dixie cup with soft serve vanilla, choc sauce, and sliced banana) but we enjoyed and then continued our return.

water loss

Every morning we lose water. it stops almost like clockwork at 6 and comes back a little after 7…just the time I’m up and trying to get ready for work. Well, I’m usually awake by 530 but not really moving or doing anything that requires water yet. And then at 6 when it is time for me to start (tea, brushing my teeth, washing my face) the water has stopped. Luckily we have a rain tank that fills and that runs into 2 taps in the bathroom. (sink and tub), but that only lasts so long. For the hour in the mornings it is fine. Until the Friday we had our housekeeper there and the water didn’t come back on…she had done laundry and used all the water in the tank…and the water didn’t come back for 3 days. So isa, rhone and I carried buckets from the hospital (luckily we live right next door) and were very sparing with our usage because we didn’t want to carry much. Luckily it didn’t last much more than the weekend.

possibility for next year

The year is coming to a close very quickly (especially since I actually had this conversation in mid November and am just writing about it now). Offers to come back next year with a different job. I’ve been talking with James Veitch about coming to work with him in the Youth Department of the Synod. It would involve learning Chichewa which I still feel that I haven’t picked up at all. and that is the only thing that I know for sure. The rest is finding out how a Malawian girl grows up and what kinds of things the church can do, meeting with the 16 presbyteries that the synod covers and meeting with the congregations. Attending and helping to teach and plan trainings (not quite sure for what) and camps or retreats. And writing reports of what I learn…it sounds interesting and difficult and he’s warned me that it will be hard and lonely and that I will encounter things that will be frustrating and discouraging and that I can do nothing about. Somehow I’m still entertaining the idea of coming back…

dipping, painting and drying

esther according to the book

Teaching money out of an american textbook is a little bit difficult to do in Malawi. I don’t have pictures of the money here that I can photocopy. I tried to do a drawing and I thought it was ok (not great by any means) but it didn’t seem to work when we used in class or on the homework. So now we just do it in class with real money. They seem to do ok with it (not too surprising as it is very exciting to have money). Still working on counting by tens and then changing to counting the ones and last week we introduced the fives. (I was then out all week so I don’t know how that went yet) I’ve gone through and changed most of the problems that have to do with dimes, nickels, and pennies so that they make a little more sense in this context. I have to point this out each time to esther who continues to read directly from the book and then has questions about what they should do. But we’re working on it and it is getting better. Now I’ve been given some pictures of Malawian money for copies and that will hopefully work when I send it home for homework.

beautician inthe making

Since coming to Malawi I have become a beautician! Well not really but before coming I had only ever cut my hair (ponytail that I chop off and it comes out differently every time). Since coming I’ve cut Rhona’s bangs (fringe), colored Hester’s hair and given Anthony a haircut. I’ve also done nail color for a couple of people though the color selection we have here is not the best by far. Guess I should be taking pictures for a portfolio…

braids

Took the time in the afternoons to explore the option of getting my hair braided. Went to the Beauty Saloon just down from the hospital on the way to the market. About 5 dollars to get my hair braided but of course I have to get some extra hair (surprise to me as I have tons of hair) so one of the girls I know from bible study was in town and offered to pick it up for me…she came home with 6 bags of fake hair! I went in early on Saturday and about 6 hours later came out with braids and a very heavy and painful head. I’d taken IBprofen before going in but definitely felt it when it wore off and they still had 2 hours of pulling and braiding left. I don’t know how the little girls sit through it! I was told to take more of the pills at lunchtime (long passed for me) and before bed otherwise I wouldn’t sleep. And they were right though I still didn’t sleep too well…

I’ve had various reactions from liking it to “what happened to your head?” but I like it and think that it works pretty well on me. I wore it with my Malawian suit to school on Monday and was a big hit among the teachers and the students.

xray

My foot was still giving me some pain…usually after I had spent all day walking on it. buty I was told that I should get an xray done just to be sure. Well the Monday was sore but was able to put off/avoid the xray. However that night my foot was quite sore and when I woke up the next morning even before getting out of bed my foot was still throbbing. So after school and lunch I walked over with rhona and got the picture taken…no break…just bruised so it would really help if I’d quit walking on it…can’t see that happening but I do try to take it a little easier and cut down some on the amount of walking I do. After the xray I went to see Rhona and Floor (dutch med student) put up the rest of the mosquito nets. They’d done the rest that morning and only had one more room to do. The patients were excited but apprehensive I think. And some of them thought it was a personal gift…on the ward round the next day rhona got her translator to explain that the nets had to stay at the hospital even when the patients left.

Rhona has also instituted bedtime—when she goes over and starts to put the nets down over the beds. This also is quite amusing to the patients. The first one done was laughed at until she moved to the next bed and then they realized it was going to happen to all of them. In the morning on the ward round one of the patients complained that they had pain in their face from sleeping under the net. The next night one of the rooms had done it themselves (which is the hope). Others tried to say it was too hot (which is understandable to me except that) so they were told to take at least 1 of the several blankets off of them and “use” the net. We’ll have to see if and how it catches on. The latest I’ve heard is that one of the women had spread the rumor that sleeping under a net will mean that you can’t ever get pregnant. Hard to combat rumors of all kinds but this could be very bad for the female ward.