flipflops

I went up the mountain (as said before) and on the way down my right flipflop broke. It is always the right one…I don’t know why but I think that the shoe companies need to make the right ones stronger. Everyone I talk to also breaks the right flipflop so I can’t even trade to wear mismatched ones because there are only left ones…maybe I’ll find someone who needs them…or possibly can get some of them fixed but I’m not too sure about that…so now I’ve bought another pair at the market…much cheaper than the princess shoes but not as sparkly…I took them off (as per normal) when I arrived at the Veitch’s but then I realized that they are plain black and I might not recognize them. Reinette pulled out a gold glitter paint pen and wrote Queen Jess on one and then her youngest son copied into the second. Did a good job and now I can’t lose them (I just hope they don’t break).

mtn scenes

The last couple of times I’ve started up the mountain the weather hasn’t really cooperated. Rainy season will do that. But on Wednesday the sun came out so Ute and I decided to go up in the afternoon. Of course at the time we’d picked the sun started to hide behind some clouds but that’s ok…but the humidity spiked. My goodness…just walking out of the cottage we were dripping. But on we went…out of breath by the time we reached the bottom of the mountain. We made it to picture rock and decided that was far enough…sat with our view over the valley and enjoyed.

Friday morning I decided to go up again. So off at 6 and it was cloudy but I felt confident (haha) that the sun would come out and burn off the clouds…I made it to the mountain hut at 7 in time to sit, take a picture and then it started raining…pouring…windy…cold. Lucky for me there were two Malawian women staying in the hut that night and they invited me inside. Many Malawians use the mountain and the hut for prayers—fasting and praying and getting away. This is what these two were doing and they went into their separate areas and I wasn’t in the way…got to watch the rain and clouds through the window and take some time for myself to think things through and pray. It was a special time. I’d brought my journal and 2 cards that I wanted to write but kept putting off. No more time to put them off and as I finished the rain let up…seemed a bit ordained…headed back down feeling refreshed and peaceful.

health passports

as I’ve said the patients keep their own health passport that they buy from the hospital or clinic and bring each time they come…kind of their medical history…of course when they are full, they buy another one, and sometimes they lose the first one…so you get a completely new book with no idea what the problem is…and asking can help but can also be confusing with the answers, especially when they don’t know the names of their medications that they’ve been taking—not that there are a whole lot of choices on what can be given but there are some and then there is the dosage. Just knowing that you take one pill in the morning and two at night is sometimes helpful but then some meds are stronger or the pills come in different sizes…so this is often one of the puzzles to figure out and why at least for the epilepsy patients it is helpful to have the record I’ve been helping to keep of meds prescribed (though we don’t know if they really take every day or not)
then there is the occasion when the translator calls a name in the hall and a patient comes in…and the doctor starts the examination based on the health passport in front of him only to find after 5 or 6 questions that this is a different person who just happened to answer to that name. last week one of the epilepsy patients came in and at their last visit Dr. Morton had asked if the girl went to school. She didn’t but there was no real reason why not as her epilepsy is relatively well controlled. So he offered a deal. Continued free medication for the epilepsy if she enrolls in school. So she came and brought a letter from the school saying that she was enrolled! Very good. And only then do we get told that the health passport that she had been using for the last 6months (as long as we’d had her in the program) was not hers but her cousins. Her cousin has no epilepsy but the health passport is full of notes on epilepsy…easily fixed as I had a new passport I could give her but still…all to save MK50 (about $.23).

text miscommunication

When in town there is usually a long list of things to do…for yourself and for others. So I had some grocery lists from 2 others (not long ones) and needed to stop at the gas place so that if/when the power went again dinner could still be cooked, and the market, and get photocopies made, and pick up milk, and take the youngest kid to his occupational therapy session. And then you get texts during the day with other things that if you have time and can do would be great…signing up one child for swimming after school…picking up school calendar…well I thought that meant at the school where the missionary kids go so I went in to the office to ask for one and got a strange look but she said she would copy one and I could pick it up the next day. I also thought that was strange but ok…texted willeke back that they would copy it and she could pick it up tomorrow since she was driving in…ok where? Also a strange question I thought—first door on the left (office mananger’s desk)…then she asked first when she gets into to town or what…like an office world? And that is when I realize she just wanted me to pick up some 2012 calendars for Ebenezer because we don’t have one in the office or in the class rooms…too late now for me to do it…but when I texted her back the misunderstanding it reminded me of one from the beginning of my first year here…we asked her to pick up some double cream. She didn’t know what that meant…so I told her heavy cream…still not really. But she got something and I went to pick up the shopping that evening…when I got it home Rhona and I were looking through and couldn’t figure out why we had this container of nivea day and night lotion…until we read the description that mentioned cream…that wasn’t going to be very good in the dessert recipe we’d been planning to make, but it was very good for a laugh.

town

Drove the mission kids into Lilongwe for school again. There is still very little petrol so I don’t move around much…not that I would if there were lots either—there isn’t much in Lilongwe that I want to do. But it is an early day as the kids have to be there at 7. We leave nkhoma by 6:15 and as soon as I had all the kids in the vehicle it started raining…and didn’t stop until about 10. I decided to do some internet at Linn’s house (norweigan nurse who was in nkhoma last year and is now working at the big hospital in Lilongwe-KCH) she’s got fast wireless…and a good thing as she had told me that the housekeeper would let me in but she didn’t come that day. So I sat in the truck with my computer and got to do my internet jobs with the rain pouring out of the sky. I’m sure that her watchman thinks I’m a bit crazy but where else is there to go in town at 7—none of the shops open until at least 8 and more likely 9…then to do the shopping—you have to go to at least 3 stores to get what you need…also to the market where I was excited to find plums which were very good and avocados which are now in season again! Then to pick the kids up after activities and head home. Not a bad day but any day in town I find quite exhausting…

sunday

Sunday was a combined English/Chichewa service (read there was no English service and everything was in Chichewa…). It started at 9am and at 11 the sermon finished. There were about 3 or 4 sentences in English so not much was understood…other than it was on the last 4 verses in Luke and the rising of Jesus to heaven. Nice music and choirs but after the 2 hours I left as did most of the azungu…I heard that it went on for another 2 hours as a farewell to one of the abusa (reverends) who was reposted to another church in Bunda (southwest of Lilongwe).
On Friday, the father of one of the school watchmen passed away. In Malawian culture, one must attend funerals…of everyone it seems…whether you know them or not. And I understand it is a form of support but it seems to take up at least 2 days. The teachers all went on Saturday to the mortuary to take the body to the village and were there again on Sunday for the funeral—all day for meetings and viewings and cooking and other gatherings…Willeke and Reynier Ter Haar and I took bikes and went for about an hour on Sunday before the burial. We got a little lost on the way but it wasn’t far away so we were quickly there (just past the market). We went to give our condolences to the watchman that we know and then Reynier stayed with the men while Willeke and I went back to another house where the ladies from school were cooking. Then we went with two of the school board ladies to the gathering and sat with the women and then went to listen to the preaching (from the African church). The father’s name was then given to two of his grandsons and they were told to live up to their name as their grandfather was a good man. One of the children was crying lots so I don’t know what was going on or being said. After about an hour we then left. I think it was good to make a visit but I’m also relieved that we didn’t have to stay the whole time.

charts gone wrong

Went into the hospital Friday afternoon and spent my time making charts for different wards and listening to my music…a bit mindnumbing but necessary…putting in pockets and the different papers that they need. One of the patient attendant translators came from Outpatients and asked for more Pediatric files. So I gave him a stack of 50 that still needed to be hole-punched and fastened. He came back with the hole-punch at the time that Rebecca got back from town. Some of the folders have gone missing so Rebecca is now counting and we’re trying to figure out where they are going…no one knows why someone would be taking folders…but she then went to count and double check…turns out they had put the holes in the wrong place which makes it impossible to add more papers when needed and they put the fasteners through the whole thing when they are supposed to leave the front cover free for easier writing in the chart…and I don’t know how many of these charts they see and work with every day all day…so she brought them back and redid them…this is not a hard task, just time consuming…and even more upsetting to have to do over again. She is now feeling that they can’t be trusted to do any of it…but I think we just need to have them do it again and again and again until they get it…because it isn’t a specialized job…

more pics from holiday

don't know what these are but there were a lot of them at our breakfast stop in Hwange...the ranger called them something that sounded like daisies?!
Matopos sunrise
waiting for tea
at ease elephants
sailing in pemba
beginning of the holiday in pemba...done driving for few days

reading

So I’m back at school 2 days a week—now as acting headmistress…which just means I’m supposed to be doing more administrative stuff. But I still get to read with some of the kids to help the teachers out. So each day I’m there I am reading with third grade and first grade (still trying to work out how to get the right time for second grade). Third grade is individual reading and the stories are getting more complex so they take a little longer. Some are kind of fun—Extreme Animals (facts on animals) or Making Paper (we might get to try this as an art project). Others are tough to fathom…George Washington’s Childhood (story about the cherry tree), Monster Mash (simply written but hard to pronounce names as they don’t really make sense—Dolp, Bink, etc.). with first grade it is in groups and simple simple sentences with lots of repetition…and I have to keep reminding myself that repetition is the beginning of reading especially when the children won’t even look at the page while “reading”.

blood donation

So we know that giving blood saves lives but here it seems so much more immediate. (and they won’t take it is in the US for at least 6 months and probably at least a year after living in Africa). I got called on Wednesday evening that they were looking for B blood. I gave at the beginning of November and usually they don’t take within 3 months but they needed it and they check my health…HB-which is how much iron is in your blood, also for all the diseases—rapid tests…and it was ok…they thought about not taking a full donation but I figure if I have to get stuck with a needle they take the max so I don’t have to do it again too soon. A medical student from the guesthouse also came down with B blood to donate… found out the next day that my blood had been divided and saved two lives…and then the next day they used the rest and saved another life. So one donation and three children were helped.
It is hard here because we don’t have the facilities to keep blood for very long (power cuts don’t help). It is also hard to find donors. Of course there is superstition around giving blood and it will take lots of education and time to get through that. It might also be the fear of finding out the results of the disease tests. Even the educated find it hard to come and give blood. A patient attendant came in while I was giving and I tried to get him to give…he told me that next time I give he will too but that is at least three months away…Another way we try to keep blood is that every person who gets a transfusion is “required” to supply a donor to replace the blood. That person can be sometimes hard to find and we are finding that for a fee sometimes someone is writing that a donor was found even when it isn’t true.

back to work

Found mushrooms on the way home (being sold on the side of the road)…the largest white mushrooms I’ve ever seen…and they are good. I have new roommates in the cottage…knew there would be one—she was here for some time last year and is back for a year working as a nurse in the hospital. Her sister came out to work either at the school or the hospital for three months. They are nice but it is always a shock to the system to start living with new people…that night I sautéed one of the mushrooms and an onion to have on bread…and Amanda just looked at me…I offered her some and she declined only asking me if I wasn’t afraid I would get sick. The next morning at breakfast there were ants on the honey or the bread…and I ate it anyway…extra protein or something…and Amanda tells her sister that after a year she will be like that too…(I think I was more like this always but I just smiled).
And of course it is like we were never gone…home on the Saturday—church on the Sunday when I found out that it was public holiday on the Monday so no school though it has started again (the week before) and so there is lots to do in the office (but not on a public holiday)…it is malaria season with all the rain and mosquitoes so the hospital is super busy and going through patient charts like they are a renewable resource…I’m sure I could have kept traveling…and actually on the way back up Mozambique I did come up with another week of things to see in Malawi…had it all mapped out and worked so beautifully…and when I told Ute she just looked at me and said that there is no petrol…and she is right. I guess it is good one of us keeps their mind on the practical side of things.

Left behind

maybe should have started with this one...

“An adventure begins at dawn with quiet conversations on a runway or a platform or a quay, about things someone has forgotten to bring.”

Not a bad trip…didn’t leave too many things behind…but of course there are always some things…our first night at the lake we realized we hadn’t brought any blue death even though we promised ourselves never to go camping again without it…I’ve been to too many campsites and been overrun with ants—blue death is the answer…a powder that you put around and when they walk through it they take it back and then never return…but luckily for us none of our campsites had too many and none of them came in the tent…
#2—my flipflops…I know—me leave behind my shoes!!—the only pair I brought on the trip, knowing that I wouldn’t wear any others anyway…we were in zim staying with Ute’s friend and I got so comfortable wandering around the place barefoot that I left them outside the front door…I guess this also comes with the fact that I drive barefoot…because I drove away and only realized I’d left them when we’d arrived at our next destination and I looked down to put them on and they weren’t there…made it about 3 days without any shoes (climbed around the Greater Zim ruins without) but in Bulawayo (big town) on the hot concrete in the middle of the day I had to get to the market to buy some…sadly they only lasted 4 days (tops) before breaking at Vic Falls—but duct tape saves the world…(they are still working)

And lastly I left my toothbrush one day…but that was easily replaced that afternoon…

Hwange Natl Park

Wow. We then visited Hwange Park…while lots of it is falling into disrepair because there are not many tourists or visitors…the camp in the middle of the park—Sinamatella—is amazing…not impressed on first getting there because there is trash all over the campsite but after making a complaint it gets cleaned up. We are on an escarpment overlooking miles and miles of field and forest…beautiful and as you sit there you realize that those gray rocks you’ve seen aren’t actually rocks but elephants. And once you see one they start appearing everywhere…went for a drive and found giraffe, elephants, and warthogs…then back to camp for sunset. We found another couple at the campground and actually felt a little affronted that there were others there…but then they invited us to dinner (they’d cooked for 10 at least)…so we couldn’t stay upset for long…


A beautiful drive the next day…woke for sun rise and then took off…had breakfast at one of the lookout points—watching hippos, zebra, and dessies (still not sure what these are—rodent looking animal of some sort)…also more giraffe, amazing birds…and a patrol of wild painted dogs across the road…and elephants in plenty…that night we went on a night safari and found a lioness who didn’t care at all that we were there—she was thirsty and was going to drink out of the puddle she found…and buffalo…the freedom in the park…well signposted and you are completely on your own…and there is so much of the park that no one ever explores because it is so vast…
Then to Harare where we stayed with Tom who we met on New Year’s Eve. Harare is a real city…even has a Holiday Inn…Tom’s got a beautiful house with an amazing garden and his own rock garden (mini-Matopos). His mother was also visiting and so we got even more of the Zimbabwe perspective—someone who left before it all fell apart (retired to Cape Town) but still loves to visit and would love to spend more time there…Thanks so much for a great visit!!
And then back to Malawi in 2 days…we stopped for the night at Caborra Bassa (a hydro dam for lots of Mozambique’s power) which was pretty but extremely over priced for the rooms (food was wonderful and cheap) and then it rained and leaked on our beds…not impressed and ready to get home…no real problems with the border crossings (as I have the correct stamps now) though the semi trucks had the whole thing blocked and we had to detour in the mud and around everything…but back in one piece with great memories…

Victoria Falls

…and we headed to Victoria Falls. The first place in the country (and on the whole trip) where it felt like there were tourists…and too many of those. But it is an awesome sight. We went white water rafting below the falls in some strong and big rapids which was lots of fun though the hikes in and out of the canyon were very tough. We went to the park early (6am) to see the falls…the first ones in and we only saw 3 other tourists while we were there. The falls are longer from this side of the border and there is such power in all the water that goes over. And of course the mists that drench you while you are enjoying the views…

Matopos Natl Park

on to the next national park—Matopos—balancing rocks…huge marbles on mountain hills that have been there for eons. We rocked up to the lodge where we wanted to camp and asked about camping…the woman went to the back and we heard through the door on walkie-talkie/2 way radio:
“you need to come.” “what’s the problem?” “there are people.” “I’ll be right there.”
I’d never known that having people come to a tourist lodge was considered a problem…but they were redoing the campsite so he came and offered a lodge at camping prices (not a problem for us!). Went on a sunset drive and saw giraffe, zebra and wildebeest and got stuck in a pond (not for long). The hill behind our cottage had more balancing rocks to climb around on…and we went into the park…we only passed two other cars in the whole park. Saw John Cecil Rhodes grave (founder of Rhodesia). Went to see some of the cave paintings there as well…down some very potholed rutted dirt paths—bounced around a lot. The clock reset itself and the radio went off for a moment but we didn’t think much of it…until the next morning when the car wouldn’t start…turns out we’d bounced the battery loose but 3 minutes at the first petrol station fixed that.

zimbabwe begins

First on our list were the Chimanimani mountains to see and hike around (the group told us not to go it would rain the whole time) but we were determined. Beautiful mountains, nice windy roads, not too many people and then we arrived in the little town of chimanimani…deserted. Well there were a few people, a coffee shop that was very run down and blaring terrible music…and we realized that not really knowing Zimbabwe and the attitudes, safety, etc…that we couldn’t stay on our own. So we continued on to Jarera and visiting Ute’s friend. Swiss germans were abounding at Musiso Mission Hospital…they did speak English as well (lucky for me). Three kids who understand english but don’t speak much of it—we got on like wildfire…the middle child went to tell his mom that they were flying over the woman who laughs in English…they were jumping over my legs as I laid on the floor…not a bad way to be known. The next morning we went to visit a farm that is also kind of a refuge for animals…there is a blind buffalo, many types of birds, and other animals…among them 4 “tame” elephants that we went out to give water. Later that afternoon we went to the mission swimming pool…very well kept up but it was neon green because there had been no power for two weeks so the filter couldn’t function…a wonderful stop and time to get our bearings in Zimbabwe—get different local perspectives (zim farmers, missionaries) as to the local attitudes and how safe we should feel.
Then on to the Greater Zimbabwe ruins…the oldest structures on the African continent next to the pyramids…of course they are in ruins but they are somewhat impressive…the size of the walls, the thickness and height…no cement of any kind was used, just row upon row of granite stone—mostly parallel. And as it is an archaeological site not much is really known about who built it or what the structures were used for—it is all conjecture but still impressive. Both campsites we stayed at were empty…beautiful though…the first there was only us and the receptionist. it is a bit strange to be the only ones at these big holiday parks… the second night at the national park camp, there was one german backpacker as well…but there were people visiting the ruins which was nice to see.

speeding

So we got stopped twice for speeding…the first was on day 3 on the way to Pemba…Ute was driving. Being in Mozambique of course the officers only speak Portuguese...and we don’t (though we do understand some with our French and Spanish)…he hands us a little print out that states the allowed speed limit (60kph), the allowance (6kph), and how much over we were (9kph), and the time…though nothing specific to our car really. So we were going 75…ok. We can’t argue (as we don’t speak the language and we were speeding). He keeps repeating “excesso” and “multa” (or whatever is Portuguese for fine) but we don’t know that word…yes and how much we try to ask in our portu-spanglish…but he doesn’t answer that either…just more repeating…finally he gets fed up with it and just lets us go telling us to slow down (of course we understand that).
The next stop was in Zimbabwe on the way to Harare…in zim they speak English…and I was driving. I thought (seriously) that we had left town and that there just weren’t the limit signs telling you that you could speed up again…I was wrong. 97 in an 80 zone…but the officers (3 of them) were very friendly and we even laughed quite a bit…I asked to see the speed gun since I’ve never actually seen one…looks like the guns in the movies for finding out the speed of a baseball pitch…so again nothing that says it was our car—though of course it was. I asked about calibration—it goes every 6 months to South Africa and is due in on 31 Jan…so I tried to point out that it must be off and that at home they have to be calibrated every morning…well how fast do you think you were going? Probably 90 I had to admit…yes well does your car get calibrated everyday? Um, no but it is Malawian…good laugh and then I had to hand over $20. I guess that’s ok. Then I got my ticket saying I’d been arrested and I was free to go—after he had filled it out…he’d given me back my license so had to ask about the address and all other relevant info…and his last question before getting me to sign was whether I had facebook…at least that is what I think I heard as I didn’t answer and he didn’t repeat or even look up…but then we were free to continue…

they really all wear those neon sleeves...only the sleeves...these are the yellow gree instead of the orange

more mozambique

christmas at nacala...in the water and before our christmas dinner


ihla de mocambique
ihla from the rooftop terrace as the sun comes up

moz beaches

strangest train sign i've seen though we then did cross tracks...
We started out on a Sunday…short day to start just to the south part of the lake…nice place to camp and we thought we’d get to swim but were then told that a hippo was camping out about 20 yards off shore…so no swimming…but we slept and enjoyed thinking that we were off on our adventure…good thing because the next day was a long one…made it through the border without any problems and then found 495 km of dirt road waiting for us (from Mandimba to Nampula)…made it just as it was getting dark. The next morning up to Pemba where we heard “all the tourists go”. But we didn’t feel that we found them. Stayed at a place just across the road from the ocean (Russell’s place) which was pretty but the next day we found a place we liked on the bay side (Pemba Bush Camp)…so we moved and spent three nights getting rested…really, we slept, swam,
ate and repeated… found some mud to play in
and went on a sunset sailing cruise. The next beach we went for was Nacala where we spent Christmas (Libelula). 100 steps above the ocean it had great views and a pool at the top of the steps which was very good after climbing up from the salt water. And then on to Ilha de Mocambique (another place where “all the tourists go”). There were a few more here but I don’t know where “all” of us were…Ilha was the Portuguese capital and the architecture was there to prove it…though much abandoned and in disrepair it was beautiful and had great atmosphere. Enjoyed wandering the town and relaxing by the pool as the beaches there look pretty but aren’t the nicest for swimming. Loved being so close to the beach and getting all the seafood! Next stop was Quelimane but we didn’t know much and it wasn’t much really…so one night and then the cross back toward Zimbabwe…we stayed at Casa Msika just in Mozambique and were expecting a quiet night even though it was new year’s eve…set up the tent and went to the restaurant/bar because we were too tired to want to cook ourselves. And we met a group from SA and Zim who had just done some serious kayaking in moz and were headed home. They were a fun group and when they heard we were headed across they asked about our plans…and they weren’t impressed…after 10 minutes we had a list of places we needed to see and phone numbers incase…it was a night of stories and laughs…and though we didn’t make it to midnight we had a great new year’s eve. We were also asked to take one of the guys and his kayak into zim because one of their cars wasn’t going…so we met up the next morning but I guess we took too long because they had already gotten everything tied up and sorted…but we saw them again at the crossing…

christmas presents

meant to get this up before going on holiday...

Spent Tuesday evening (13th) and all day Wednesday helping maralise put together christmas packages for the patients of the hospital…it looks like if you have to get sick this would be the time to do it…Maralise has been here for 5 years and has just returned from holiday/sick leave from South Africa (she had a heart attack and got medivac’d at the end of September)…there are a lot of patients at the hospital so we were looking for a lot of plastic bags…and into each bag went: an article of clothing, rice, salt, sugar, soap, sachet of oil, powdered milk, puffs (cheeto type snack), powdered fruit drink, matches, plastic cup, sweets, tea and for kids a toy and maternity get some baby clothes…talk about a production. The rice, salt and sugar have to be repackaged smaller… and often double bagged because the quality isn’t so great…these will be delivered on Saturday…and she will be so glad to get all the stuff out of her house so she can live there again
And the delivery…with guitar music and lots of people…

back

we have arrived safely back in nkhoma after 1 month and 6930 kilometers on the road...came back saturday evening to rain and cool weather...well it is rainy season so i guess it is time for it but usually it is hot as well (I’m not complaining)...look forward to giving you more stories and hopefully pics soon!

zimbabwe

we are now in zim and loving it...going white water rafting at vic falls tomorrow!! and then going to start making our way back toward malawi...not too fast...a couple of days in hwange national park to see what animals we can find...a look at harare and then on our way...we have been to the greater zimbabwe ruins and through matopos park...all of which has been amazing...don't believe everything you read in the news i guess...HAPPY NEW YEAR