I was really dreading school starting again. in the pit of my stomach I flat out didn’t want to go back. I could really get used to travelling and not teaching while in Malawi. Then Monday morning came. And it went so well. We’d added some centers (had blocks made over break so now we can build). And the kids were very good. I did only have 7 of them…not sure what the other 3 were up to. But it went great. Left feeling like I could handle this and make it through.
Tuesday was similar. Still not completely sure that I wanted to be teaching. 8 kids arrived and the day went as well as Monday. Patrick- a sweetheart but sometimes gets into trouble- was very clingy and lethargic. Didn’t want to sit on his mat during group time and ended up on my lap through most of it. I also carried him around for much of the morning. During break he sat in my lap or lay down on the porch. I don’t know whether he just didn’t sleep the night before or what. He’s small so it wasn’t a problem for me.
The rest of the week was ok. The days got long toward the end of the week but I think that is normal for all working people…always looking forward to the weekends. The kids have started talking to me about sharing their things with me. Or coming to my house to visit (scary prospect). Or cutting my finger nails. (really?). nice that they are taking an interest but not sure that I want them at my house or helping with my hygiene.
Note: the kids here can cry and wail at the drop of a hat. No pain is necessary for crocodile tears and the loudest wailing you can imagine. Seriously I’ve never heard anything like it from someone really not hurt. It also turns off as easily after an apology (from the offender). Amazing. And done totally for effect I think…and it does seem to get results as I can’t handle the wailing for any amount of time. Something I’ll have to work on.
Saw my first hedgehog. Prickly little suckers! Rolled in a ball for the longest time and when he finally started to open I thought he was pretty ugly. But then when he was uncurled and wandering around he really was quite cute.
Also tried termites…sold in the market here and Rhona wanted a picture and felt she had to buy some to get the picture. Then we figured we had to try them since we had bought them. Got a Malawian to fix them (figured that was the way to go) I did try them as did Dorothy but the mental issue of eating insects meant I didn’t make it past 2 bites and I felt queasy the rest of the afternoon. Just thinking about them now still makes me squirm.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Friday, March 5, 2010
day 6
Time to head back. Up way too early (bus at 6) but it did actually leave on time and empty which none of us had seen before. Actually made it all the way to Lilongwe on the one bus. We took the coastal road again but were assured that the bridge had been fixed. We weren’t completely convinced but figured it was the best option as the other was to try mini-buses and the headaches that come from that. Piled off at the police stop where they thoroughly checked the bus and lots of the luggage. Not sure what they were looking for but I don’t think they found it. And into Lilongwe at 2:30. the older missionary kids go to Lilongwe for school and they get picked up at 2:30 on Thursdays so we called to see if we could get a ride back with them. We just made it. They were crossing the bridge we were coming to as we called. So we piled in…12 people in the 10 person bus. Of course it is very similar to being on an actual school bus. 8 kids all hyper after school…wow. We got to the police stop on the way to Nkhoma and got waved through. Sadly we didn’t move over quite far enough and side swiped the gate. Really. I just looked at James—twice in two weeks. No real damage done but it took a while of the police talking and then letting us go. Really two close calls and off—I can’t believe it. James and I were in the back trying to explain to the kids appropriate subjects of discussion while at a police stop and that one of them was not the fact that this happened last week. Luckily we did get that point across. One of the officers came and joked with the kids some. As we drove away the kids asked if they could talk about it now. As we were leaving that was fine and they thought it was hilarious. Rebecca told me that the woman officer told her (before letting her go) that as women we need to be extra careful driving and not to do it again…you may go and God bless you.
day 5
With the rain going we’d almost decided to stay another night at Nkwazi but it stopped around 11 so we kept moving. Up to Nkata Bay. Another place where many tourists come through. The hostel was much more like where I’ve stayed in other countries. The water was not as inviting probably due to all the rain but it was a nice area. They had just installed wifi in the hostel…and us without our computers. (oh darn). Small market in town that we walked through and ran into the trio we’d met at Kande Beach up for some shopping as these were the closest shops.
day 4
Walked in to Makuzi Lodge just to look around. Very posh and very gorgeous. The water was clear and blue and just this picturesque little bay. The buildings had actually been kept up pretty well. Very nice (and expensive) so we walked back out and grabbed a truck to Nkwazi Lodge. Not much farther than Makuzi and when the truck picked us up it charged too much but we didn’t know that. At the turn off we got out and then they said get in we’ll take you to the next crossroads. Very nice and a little out of their way we then only had 2km to walk. Into the wilderness. No gate, no fences just forest. Another little bay—lots of rocks and seclusion. Set up camp and then ran into the owner who said that it was supposed to rain and we should move into one of the rooms…it was a good call as it started raining at about 6 pm and didn’t stop until 11 the next morning… camp would have been washed away and soaking wet. Got in a swim, some checkers and the clouds were definitely menacing. Had to order dinner before 4 so that meant that we ate about 5:30. Jim (owner) came and had a drink with us and told us his views on Africa, and working there and helping without any gratitude and being taken advantage of. It sounded a lot like he’s burned out and ready to sell but then this is and has been his life and what would he do next as his health isn’t the best. He figures that the people who come to help in Africa would do better helping in their own country but personally they wouldn’t make as much money. because who comes to check up on how the money is spent here and if it is actually helping when it is in Africa as opposed to home where it is easy to check on. Something to think about at least.
day 3
Followed by small children who parrot “give me money, give me money, give me _______” (fill in the blank with anything you might have—pen, candy, umbrella, etc). they even asked for my small umbrella when they were walking with a large nice golf umbrella…really!? To Kande Beach which turns out to be where many, many, many overlanders stop. (overlanders-big trucks that drive the length of Africa on tours, aka loud mzungus just passing through) as we walked in we saw a big group of them being taken on a village tour- a cultural experience that is scripted and paid for. We met Cheeseontoast (not sure on the spelling but that is what he said). When you tell them that you live in Nkhoma they usually don’t try to sell you whatever it is they are selling quite as hard. When you say you’re from _______(overseas) they will tell you “their story” and try to get you on the village tour or to buy the crafts, etc. it works very well being from Nkhoma. walking in we also met a girl who talked until her turn off and then asked when we would come to her home to see how she lived. You don’t have to pay to have cultural experiences…you just have to get off the bus really. (sorry if that sounds kind of jaded and down on tours that I’m sure are good for the people who are on them). Tent city when we got there. 4 overlanders already there and 2 more arrived after we did. Each truck holds about 15 people I think. Set up camp, went for a swim, sat in a hammock, fought the urge to yell mzungu when a white person walked by (which the kids around here didn’t do as they are so used to all the people coming through-unlike the rest of the country). A walk on the beach before dinner where I started talking to a fisherman who was pulling in a net (I think). They boat out way far, drop the net and then come back to shore and pull in hand over hand the net full of small fish. He asked if we wanted to see and I told him we’d be back. Kept walking for a bit and then turned around. It still wasn’t in but he said it would only take a few minutes…I forgot about African minutes. We waited and waited and had a nice chat with the man and his son and another man and his three kids. Good conversation until the second man then asked for money because he does no work. We had to get back so we could get dinner before the restaurant closed so we left without seeing the elusive net full of fish. Had dinner with 3 people who had been on an overland tour and were back working at an orphanage in the area for a month. Very nice mom, daughter and husband. We got to swap travel and transport horror stories. (we then ran into them again in Nkhata Bay)
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