zimbabwe begins

First on our list were the Chimanimani mountains to see and hike around (the group told us not to go it would rain the whole time) but we were determined. Beautiful mountains, nice windy roads, not too many people and then we arrived in the little town of chimanimani…deserted. Well there were a few people, a coffee shop that was very run down and blaring terrible music…and we realized that not really knowing Zimbabwe and the attitudes, safety, etc…that we couldn’t stay on our own. So we continued on to Jarera and visiting Ute’s friend. Swiss germans were abounding at Musiso Mission Hospital…they did speak English as well (lucky for me). Three kids who understand english but don’t speak much of it—we got on like wildfire…the middle child went to tell his mom that they were flying over the woman who laughs in English…they were jumping over my legs as I laid on the floor…not a bad way to be known. The next morning we went to visit a farm that is also kind of a refuge for animals…there is a blind buffalo, many types of birds, and other animals…among them 4 “tame” elephants that we went out to give water. Later that afternoon we went to the mission swimming pool…very well kept up but it was neon green because there had been no power for two weeks so the filter couldn’t function…a wonderful stop and time to get our bearings in Zimbabwe—get different local perspectives (zim farmers, missionaries) as to the local attitudes and how safe we should feel.
Then on to the Greater Zimbabwe ruins…the oldest structures on the African continent next to the pyramids…of course they are in ruins but they are somewhat impressive…the size of the walls, the thickness and height…no cement of any kind was used, just row upon row of granite stone—mostly parallel. And as it is an archaeological site not much is really known about who built it or what the structures were used for—it is all conjecture but still impressive. Both campsites we stayed at were empty…beautiful though…the first there was only us and the receptionist. it is a bit strange to be the only ones at these big holiday parks… the second night at the national park camp, there was one german backpacker as well…but there were people visiting the ruins which was nice to see.

speeding

So we got stopped twice for speeding…the first was on day 3 on the way to Pemba…Ute was driving. Being in Mozambique of course the officers only speak Portuguese...and we don’t (though we do understand some with our French and Spanish)…he hands us a little print out that states the allowed speed limit (60kph), the allowance (6kph), and how much over we were (9kph), and the time…though nothing specific to our car really. So we were going 75…ok. We can’t argue (as we don’t speak the language and we were speeding). He keeps repeating “excesso” and “multa” (or whatever is Portuguese for fine) but we don’t know that word…yes and how much we try to ask in our portu-spanglish…but he doesn’t answer that either…just more repeating…finally he gets fed up with it and just lets us go telling us to slow down (of course we understand that).
The next stop was in Zimbabwe on the way to Harare…in zim they speak English…and I was driving. I thought (seriously) that we had left town and that there just weren’t the limit signs telling you that you could speed up again…I was wrong. 97 in an 80 zone…but the officers (3 of them) were very friendly and we even laughed quite a bit…I asked to see the speed gun since I’ve never actually seen one…looks like the guns in the movies for finding out the speed of a baseball pitch…so again nothing that says it was our car—though of course it was. I asked about calibration—it goes every 6 months to South Africa and is due in on 31 Jan…so I tried to point out that it must be off and that at home they have to be calibrated every morning…well how fast do you think you were going? Probably 90 I had to admit…yes well does your car get calibrated everyday? Um, no but it is Malawian…good laugh and then I had to hand over $20. I guess that’s ok. Then I got my ticket saying I’d been arrested and I was free to go—after he had filled it out…he’d given me back my license so had to ask about the address and all other relevant info…and his last question before getting me to sign was whether I had facebook…at least that is what I think I heard as I didn’t answer and he didn’t repeat or even look up…but then we were free to continue…

they really all wear those neon sleeves...only the sleeves...these are the yellow gree instead of the orange

more mozambique

christmas at nacala...in the water and before our christmas dinner


ihla de mocambique
ihla from the rooftop terrace as the sun comes up

moz beaches

strangest train sign i've seen though we then did cross tracks...
We started out on a Sunday…short day to start just to the south part of the lake…nice place to camp and we thought we’d get to swim but were then told that a hippo was camping out about 20 yards off shore…so no swimming…but we slept and enjoyed thinking that we were off on our adventure…good thing because the next day was a long one…made it through the border without any problems and then found 495 km of dirt road waiting for us (from Mandimba to Nampula)…made it just as it was getting dark. The next morning up to Pemba where we heard “all the tourists go”. But we didn’t feel that we found them. Stayed at a place just across the road from the ocean (Russell’s place) which was pretty but the next day we found a place we liked on the bay side (Pemba Bush Camp)…so we moved and spent three nights getting rested…really, we slept, swam,
ate and repeated… found some mud to play in
and went on a sunset sailing cruise. The next beach we went for was Nacala where we spent Christmas (Libelula). 100 steps above the ocean it had great views and a pool at the top of the steps which was very good after climbing up from the salt water. And then on to Ilha de Mocambique (another place where “all the tourists go”). There were a few more here but I don’t know where “all” of us were…Ilha was the Portuguese capital and the architecture was there to prove it…though much abandoned and in disrepair it was beautiful and had great atmosphere. Enjoyed wandering the town and relaxing by the pool as the beaches there look pretty but aren’t the nicest for swimming. Loved being so close to the beach and getting all the seafood! Next stop was Quelimane but we didn’t know much and it wasn’t much really…so one night and then the cross back toward Zimbabwe…we stayed at Casa Msika just in Mozambique and were expecting a quiet night even though it was new year’s eve…set up the tent and went to the restaurant/bar because we were too tired to want to cook ourselves. And we met a group from SA and Zim who had just done some serious kayaking in moz and were headed home. They were a fun group and when they heard we were headed across they asked about our plans…and they weren’t impressed…after 10 minutes we had a list of places we needed to see and phone numbers incase…it was a night of stories and laughs…and though we didn’t make it to midnight we had a great new year’s eve. We were also asked to take one of the guys and his kayak into zim because one of their cars wasn’t going…so we met up the next morning but I guess we took too long because they had already gotten everything tied up and sorted…but we saw them again at the crossing…

christmas presents

meant to get this up before going on holiday...

Spent Tuesday evening (13th) and all day Wednesday helping maralise put together christmas packages for the patients of the hospital…it looks like if you have to get sick this would be the time to do it…Maralise has been here for 5 years and has just returned from holiday/sick leave from South Africa (she had a heart attack and got medivac’d at the end of September)…there are a lot of patients at the hospital so we were looking for a lot of plastic bags…and into each bag went: an article of clothing, rice, salt, sugar, soap, sachet of oil, powdered milk, puffs (cheeto type snack), powdered fruit drink, matches, plastic cup, sweets, tea and for kids a toy and maternity get some baby clothes…talk about a production. The rice, salt and sugar have to be repackaged smaller… and often double bagged because the quality isn’t so great…these will be delivered on Saturday…and she will be so glad to get all the stuff out of her house so she can live there again
And the delivery…with guitar music and lots of people…

back

we have arrived safely back in nkhoma after 1 month and 6930 kilometers on the road...came back saturday evening to rain and cool weather...well it is rainy season so i guess it is time for it but usually it is hot as well (I’m not complaining)...look forward to giving you more stories and hopefully pics soon!

zimbabwe

we are now in zim and loving it...going white water rafting at vic falls tomorrow!! and then going to start making our way back toward malawi...not too fast...a couple of days in hwange national park to see what animals we can find...a look at harare and then on our way...we have been to the greater zimbabwe ruins and through matopos park...all of which has been amazing...don't believe everything you read in the news i guess...HAPPY NEW YEAR